100 Replies to “Testing Clay in a BBQ”

  1. Cut scratches in the tops of the coils with a nail as you make your pot and slightly moisten the scratched clay. That will make the clay stick to itself better and lessen the chance of bubbles and cracking when you fire your pieces.

  2. With your coil technique you didnt score and slip. If you wanted it to work you need to add some none fired clay to water to make slip. Then you need to get a sharp tool to score wich will help join both coils then after you score put your slip on it and attach the two coils.

  3. Wheel Potter – Thoughts on clay cracks – All clay has a percentage of shrinkage when it dries and when it fires. this can be anywhere between 4% to 15% shrinkage. Depending on the size of a piece this can be very minimal (1/4") to over an inch worth of a difference. A piece that has thinner spots vs thicker spots will dry at different rates and change how the piece shrinks uniformly. If a part of the pot shrinks faster than another part, it will separate causing a crack. The Clay needs to dry slowly until it is ready to fire to help prevent cracking. Porcelain is a very fine clay with no grog, it is quite strong when fired, but it also shrinks the most because as it dries the clay particles pack together tighter. The more grog that is included the less shrinkage you will have. Primitive technology was able to quickly dry his pieces by a fire due to the large amount of grog and impurities in his clay that prevented the clay from shrinking so much.
    A method that I use to help dry slower is to place a bucket, or other solid container, upside down over the piece, on top of stilts to allow a small slit of airflow from the bottom. I've used popsicle sticks, or even 1" thick blocks to raise the upside down bucket a bit. This creates a sort of "damp box" that prevents the moisture from escaping too quickly. Depending on the gap in your bucket, you can extend the drying time up to a few weeks.

  4. Hey KOR King of random you should put clay in liquid nitrogen i think it would get hard and use it as pottery can u please try it

  5. ok time to fire our clay!


    oops, guess i didnt slap it on the table enough, i guess I GET DOWN AND SLAM AND WELCOME TO THE JA-

  6. I just want to know how so many people can "unlike" these videos…..they must have problems folding paper etc.

  7. The next time you make a coiled pot after you get done with it make you a clay solution that is commonly known as slip this is a thick clay solution that is still yet liquid. It will seal the gaps between the coils better without leaving air bubbles. This will prevent the coils from separating from one another. I’ve actually done server of pottery projects so if you want any tips feel free to get in contact with me. I’d be glad to help.

  8. Thanks me and my little sister are learning to make and use clay in school and that will help a whole lot

  9. I don´t now why I spent time here.. You ´re some fellows that want to show how to improvise… But you are not improvising.. because you use expensive tools … No Sence! … And you are trying to reinvent something that is already invented!!! No Sence at all !!! there are towsands of people that allready showned the right way!!! Why are you trying to do the wrong way????

  10. Your problem with the firing is not really if it's a clean clay, ash clay or 'grog' clay, the problem is that you didn't squeeze the coil enough into itself.

    You hold your finger on the inside of the pot as a 'wall', and squeeze one coil at a time from the outside, in an upwards motion. This seals the clay. I'd also recommend horse manure in addition to the 'grog', 10% horse manure, 10% 'grog' and 80% clay works perfectly for me, the grass in the manure acts as steel in reinforced concrete, since it burns off there is room for the clay itself to expand during the firing process.

  11. in my ceramics class, my teacher said that clay needs to be about the thickness of your thumb, if it is any thinner it will crack since clay shrinks. Idk if this type of clay shrinks though.

  12. Instead of using water to glue clay to each other u should use what is called slip ( clay mixed with water to make a pasty substance) trust me it works much better

  13. what you need to do is temper the clay properly, crush the fired clay you have to powder and add it to the clay

  14. Jou shold meake bottom and wals of vases thicker i did thicknes of 1-2 centimetars and it didnt berake and try puting some dry dead plants and gras it meakes it more durable

  15. I'm a ceramicist, and the trick to keeping your clay from cracking is holding it a 200° F for two hours before increasing the temperature. This removes all ambient water. After that, increasing temperature by 300°F per hour is what I do.

  16. hey, maybe test putting rocks in the clay and fire it or let it sit to dry and see if it's stronger than just normal fired clay? also I would suggest being carful if you fire it, I've heard if you toss a rock straight into a fire it will heat up and explode

  17. what about seeing what the vacuum you guys use to remove the bubbles in the clayu? would love to see that

  18. It could be that there were still some impurities in the clay from the sourcing process you guys did previously. Additionally, I think the initial cracks before the firing were a bad sign that the drying process had left micro and macro fissures in the pieces which were just going to cause further damage upon firing.

  19. should have FULLY allowed clay articles to AIR DRY! slow moisture purge and evaporation. THEN fired. the remaining moisture in the clay caused your crackings!

  20. honestly wearing glove? really. i don't think you know what you are doing. Wedging? this is not wedging this is doping the clay on a table. If you want to do pit fire in a BBQ you need to use bisque pieces. green ware will crack. Also you need to add salt cobalt dry seaweed, banana, corn …to get some colors.

  21. Man, I did everything right with my pots, no cracking let it dry for a week and let it fire for 2 hours. I took them out and they just crumbled when I soaked them in water.

  22. Your clay most likely broke because several times you exposed it to cooler air which shocks it and causes it to contract, and then you reheated it. Clay needs a consistant heat and should only be allowed to cool very slowly at the end.

  23. Most of the problems with this is not the actual firing process it is the way it was made the did not slip or score that would cause it to fall apart because it can not stick together correctly

  24. I've done pottery on and off for many years, but I've never heard of mixing charcoal ash into your clay body to help prevent cracking. Years ago I did mix various natural fibers into my clay body to make it stronger while it was in the greenware stage because I was making some extreme textures in my sculptures – it worked beautifully, but caused a very smokey bisque firing. Anyway, I'm very curious where you heard about using ash in your clay body – I'd like to check it out. As for your technique of forming your pots, I would strongly suggest you sign up for some type of ceramics class at your local community college. You've got the energy and enthusiasm to go a long way with some quality instruction.

  25. One of the major reasons pots cracked is due to abrupt temperature changes during firing. Cold tongs, exposure to cool air and extreme heat. The pots experienced heat shock each time you open and closed the lid. You need to have a way of gradually heating the pots and adding fuel without dropping temperature

  26. If your going to reuse clay for a next day I suggest to wrap it in a moist paper so it can still be in plastic form there are three forms

    Plastic: When the play is really moist and stretchy

    Leather Hard: hard to use but can be moisted to turn into plastic

    Bone dry: super dry can break in an impact on the ground

  27. Having cracks at the bottom of the clay jars would definitely effect the outcome. Cracks cause more cracks and so-on….

  28. It's been a while since I've done any pottery like this but I do believe you need to let the clay sit for several days after shaped. I don't know how long you waited but it did look like it was still a bit wet. Water will do the same thing as air bubbles. Plus the manufactured charcoal does not get as hot as real charcoal made from wood. That might have helped getting it hotter. Then there is the cool down process. Putting it is in a raised grill will cause it to cool down way to fast and that will cause thermal stress. The best way to fix that would ha been in an insulated oven partially in the ground. Or something similar to the metal foundries you've used in your videos, only bigger.

  29. Thanks for the nice information.. I also want to know, whether you have glazed your bowls before heating? And second, can we heat our pots on gas also… Like putting in a slightly big aluminium rice type container on slow heat..?

  30. i kept wondering why the voices kept changing lol i finally realized that you are two guys not one LOL. i guess i wasn't that observant. haha

  31. Guys lol…I would LOVE if you redid this but 1) actually wedge the clay 2)slip and score 3)use commercial clay as a control because you don't know the quality of your clay and 4)use a heat gun and take temp readings throughout and tell us what they are. The idea of this is great but the execution is why they cracked.

  32. I’m sorry but you really annoyed me by having on gloves lol. Please don’t be mean to the clay. You’re supposed to interact with it and make it happy.

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